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    lundi 17 août 2020

    Living the vintage motorcycle dream with Paul d’Orleans

     For self-confessed motorcycle addict Paul d’Orleans, bikes are so much more than the sum of their parts; they’re holograms of the world as it was — the personalities, politics, culture, and art. And above all, he wants to share them with the world. We sent Rémi Dargegen to San Francisco to meet him…

    Among the world’s foremost vintage motorcycle experts, Paul d’Orleans is not what you’d call conventional. But his radical and lifelong approach to, and deep knowledge of, the world of motorcycles has garnered him worldwide recognition. Among other duties, he’s edited and contributed to the foremost motorcycle magazines, authored definitive works (several of which were published by our friends at Gestalten), curated fresh and revealing exhibitions, and judged at the most significant shows, including the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este. In 2006, he started The Vintagent, a blog dedicated to sharing not only his knowledge but also the motorcycle community. And more recently, he’s curated the Custom Revolution exhibition at the Petersen Museum in Los Angeles, a breakthrough look into the ‘Alt. Custom’ world and its cultural implications, which we’ll be highlighting in a separate story in the near future. During his West Coast odyssey, Rémi Dargegen paid Paul a visit to discover, firstly, where this passion kindled and, secondly, how it snowballed. 

    What are your earliest automotive memories?

    When I was born, I was taken home from the hospital in a blue Rambler station wagon, which was later swapped for a new 1966 Chevy Impala in gold. I have two older brothers and, when I was four or five, I remember seeing a beautiful blue and silver car and asking them what it was. “A Triumph, you dummy!” they replied — they weren’t so kind but they preceded my interest in motorbikes. My brother Don had a Honda 500 Super Sport and a Suzuki Titan. I rode on the back and he used to scare the daylights out of me by jumping over the nearby railway tracks.

    Was this when your passion for motorcycles spawned?

    Motorcycles were always on the table. In 1978, when I was 15, A Honda moped transported me to night classes at the local college so I could graduate from high school early. High school was miserable and the Honda allowed me to escape — the cliché of ‘freedom’ was very real and I loved the mobility. After graduating from university, a friend of mine, Jim, who owned a 1959 BMW R50, set up a printing press in my basement. He was a good anarchist and felt guilty about his materialistic obsession with motorcycles. He’d collected every issue of Classic Bike and Classic Motorcycles magazines and, in 1984, he gave them all to me. That was the end of my former life and when I was infested with the ‘virus’ — my hungry eyes burned holes in those magazines!

    You were a car guy once upon a time?

    Yes, I collected sports cars in the 1980s and ’90s — among others, I owned a ‘flat floor’ Jaguar E-type Roadster, a Jensen Healey Roadster, and a Saab 900 Turbo convertible.

    So why did you switch to collecting classic motorcycles?

    While I have a veneer of respectability, I was a total tearaway in my 20s and 30s and used every vehicle to its limits. Cars can be as fun as motorcycles, but only if you keep the pedal to the floor, drift around corners, and pass everyone to keep a clear road ahead. After my best friend had a horrific accident, I reflected on my bikes, how you can ride like a demon and kill yourself, but with cars, the chances are you’ll take someone else with you. So, I sold all my cars and doubled-down on bikes.

    How did you become one of the most knowledgeable motorcycle experts in the world?

    It was an obsession. In San Francisco in the 1980s, old bikes were common and cheap but there was no information on them — no internet to search for Norton Electras or Velocette KTTs. But there were books, so I spent all my money clearing every used bookshop I encountered of its motorcycle titles. In the 1990s, I stretched my search for bikes to Britain, Germany, South America, and Australia. When one is looking for Brough Superiors and other rare racing motorcycles from the 1920s and ’30s, word soon spreads and you become known as a serious person in the collecting world. 

    Two things changed my life in ways I couldn’t have predicted: the internet and the Legend of the Motorcycle Concours. I was a judge at the world’s most prestigious and internationally attended show for three years and met seemingly everyone from the motorcycle industry. I started The Vintagent in 2006 in response to this remarkable event, and when the blog began to gain traction, it led to a career change from interior design.

    And you’re still learning something new every day?

    The more I research, the more I realise how little I, or anyone for that matter, knows about motorcycle history and culture. The deeper I dig, the more I discover and the more interesting the subject becomes. Motorcycles are a hologram of the world, in that if you break them down, each part contains an image. So, when, for example, I study a photograph of the Indian Motorcycles factory in 1918, I can see the world as it was, from the architecture to the roles of the workforce and the state of the gas, oil, and rubber industries. Now you’re inside my head!

    Today, what is your best source of knowledge?

    There’s almost nothing on the internet about old motorcycles, despite there being thousands of websites about them. I could close my eyes, open one of the 2,000-plus books on my shelves at random, and almost guarantee that the information will not be on the web. So, if you’re looking for information, look in old books. 

    How does it feel to be a motorcycle judge at the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este?

    You don’t have to twist my arm to fly to Lake Como in May for a weekend filled with amazing cars, motorcycles, and people! It’s so great to meet the European collectors, and it’s an honour to be a guest at the event. Villa d’Este is the event Pebble Beach winners are dying to get into. Also, it’s led to a nice relationship with BMW, which builds motorcycles and, you know, has an incredible archive…

    You’re perhaps more famous at the event for your amazing and surprising style than your motorcycle knowledge…

    My mother was a fashion designer and my grandmother was an editor at Vogue, so I came by my interest in fashion quite honestly. I love design and theatre, and I’ve never minded being seen as unusual. I was a punk in the early 1980s and my first magazine gig was Maximum Rock’n’Roll, which is still extant! Before that, I worshipped Bowie. I love that the concorso is polished, but the organisers know what they’re getting when they invite me.

    From our point of view in the car world, the world of classic motorcycles seems more inclusive and with far more real specialists – is that the case?

    I think the motorcycle scene looks very different from the inside. From there, the car world looks very closed, totally corrupted by money and obsessed with shiny objects. Bike collectors are way ahead of car collectors in valuing originality above everything else — they’ve come to view any restoration as suspect because there are so many fakes in circulation. When something is shiny and perfect, you have no idea what’s underneath the paint or if any part is original from the factory. 

    Your collection of motorcycles is very impressive – how many have you owned and how do you go about choosing them?

    I tried to document them all last year and I stopped at 214. The bikes in the collection have ranged from 1902 to 1992, but after a stretch in the 1980s collecting café racers, such as the BSA Gold Star and the Norton Atlas, I became more interested in racing machinery from the 1920s and ’30s. I ride everything I own, so what I’ve kept in my stable is what I like to ride in the hills north of San Francisco. They must handle beautifully, have sufficient power, and be beautiful examples of design. I have five Velocettes, including three KTT racers, a couple of Triumph Twins, and a Brough Superior 11.50 tourer. I’ve owned six Brough Superiors but I sold them in 2000, as I preferred the racers to the Tourers — I sold them far too soon! I’m a recovering motorcycle addict and do my best to keep my collection at a dozen. The struggle is real.

    You have a particular affinity for Velocette – what’s so special about this brand?

    I was president of the Velocette Owners’ Club for many years because I fell in love with them. It has been called the Bugatti of the motorcycle world because it was a small family firm with eccentricities in its design. The bikes were handmade and won more Grands Prix, TTs, and World Championships than such a small company should have. They’re beautiful, reliable, simple to repair, and a lot of fun to ride, even in modern traffic. I have three racing KTTs, and I’ve had my Thruxton production racer since 1989 — I bought it from the largest ‘privateer’ amphetamine manufacturer in the US after he was caught with six tonnes of the stuff. Now that’s a story waiting to be told! 

    Are there any motorcycles you regret selling?

    Very few, and I’ve sold some world-class bikes, including a tuned 1929 Norton ES2 with an aluminium zeppelin sidecar, in which I took my daughter to school, and a 1925 Lotus Sunbeam Longstroke Sports. Both were totally original and in marvellous running condition. I sold them to buy a 1925 Zenith-Jap KTOR land-speed racer — the only supercharged bike from the 1920s still in original condition. It’s worth a million dollars today, but I sold it to buy my house in San Francisco. 

    What are your most thrilling riding memories?

    The word thrill can mean many things. The scariest ride I ever had was on my blown Zenith-JAP at Montlhéry — every combustion was a shove in the back, there was a large crowd surrounding the short runway, and it had lousy brakes and a clutch that required gorilla strength. My most elegant riding memory was on a three-wheeled Brough Superior with a sidecar. I dubbed it the ‘Emperor of Motorcycles’, as it was automotive perfection.

    In your opinion, what are the three most amazing motorcycles ever produced?

    Sylvester Roper’s 1896 ‘self-propeller’, steam-powered motorcycle — the first bike that really worked, in that it was fast and ridden regularly — the 1925 Brough Superior SS100, and the 1959 Honda Super Cub. 

    Photos: Rémi Dargegen for Classic Driver © 2018

    You can find out much more about Paul and the motorcycles he so devotedly explores at his website, The Vintagent.

    Alternatively, you can browse a wide selection of classic and modern motorcycles listed for sale in the Classic Driver Market. 

    via https://www.classicdriver.com/

    mercredi 12 août 2020

    From sheep to shop with Nick Ashley and Private White V.C.

     

    One of the most exciting new British menswear brands, Private White V.C. is guided by the creative eye of Nick Ashley. We met with him at the brand’s flagship Mayfair store to talk about the company’s namesake, 100% British craftsmanship, saving a century-old factory and the future of fashion…

    It takes just a moment for the mid-morning peace of Duke Street to be shattered, as Nick Ashley, looking debonair in full Private White get-up, arrives at the brand’s flagship Mayfair store astride his thunderous 1920s Harley-Davidson. For the past four years, Ashley has been the creative force behind Private White, the British men’s outfitters born of the desire to save a 100-year-old factory in the heart of Manchester from closure. 

    The business was championed by James Eden, the great-grandson of the company’s namesake Private Jack White, a World War 1 hero and the founding father of the Manchester factory. With the support of Mike Stoll, Eden’s godfather who’s run the factory for over 50 years, and Ashley, who gave up his own design label to support the cause, Private White’s gone from employing 40 to 120 people in just five years and become one of the most talked about menswear brands not just in the UK, but around the world.

    “I was prepared to put everything behind this new manufacturer brand because I think designer labels are a busted flush,” he explains. “The next generation is a completely different group of customers. They feel more sophisticated and don’t want to go out with a pony trotting across their chests.” Provenance is everything now, according to Ashley, who is fiercely proud that Private White’s clothes are made entirely in the UK – something many other brands falsely claim. 

    “We call it sheep to shop,” he explains. “We start with wool from sheep on my wife’s farm in Wales, it’s weaved in a mill in Yorkshire and we make the clothes in Manchester – we’re doing it the long way round, and there’s no one else doing that in the world.” The broad range of clothes itself, spearheaded by the outerwear, is designed to be both versatile and durable. “What you travel in has to be versatile,” he says. “Our Jeep coat, for example, is smart enough to wear to Harry’s Bar in Mayfair, yet rugged and warm enough to wear skiing. It’s going to cut the dash in almost any situation.”

    Ashley describes the designs themselves as ‘techno-retro’, and as blank canvases that can be styled and dressed up or down in line with the customers’ lifestyles. “I love kitsch and high fashion, but you need clothes that work for everyday use,” he comments. “Fashion is a reflection of what you feel on the inside, on the outside – you don’t want the clothes to speak too loudly, as it’s the person who needs to make the statement rather than what he or she’s wearing.” He equates it to the casual version of a tailored Savile Row suit, both in terms of quality and exclusivity. 

    The craftsmanship of the clothes is also something on which Ashley thinks you can’t put a price, likening it to the Japanese philosophy of owning a small number of ultra-high-quality and highly cherished possessions. After all, the word fashion actually means to produce something with your hands. “We’re trying to involve the customer more in the process,” he comments. “The craftsman who made the item has imbued it with all his soul, spirit and knowledge and then given it to you. It might be expensive, but it makes you feel great.”

    Ashley’s love of fashion and design is something he attributes to his mother, Laura, who, together with his father Bernard, started the Laura Ashley empire. “The turning point was when my mother took me to Carnaby Street to a shop called Kids in Gear when I was seven,” he recalls fondly. “It sold jumbo Engelbert Humperdinck flares, patent leather belts and the like, and I was wearing it all.” After attending some 13 schools and getting fired from the family business by his father numerous times, Ashley forged a career both as an independent fashion designer and working for some of the world’s biggest names. 

    Having grown up on a Welsh farm and in various factories, it was perhaps inevitable that Ashley would also develop a penchant for all things automotive. “When I was big enough to ride a bike, I got on one,” he tells us. “My father had an old Triumph after the war, and when he got married to my mother, they took it to St. Tropez and she rode side-saddle the whole way. Alas, they ran out of money, had to sell the bike and hitchhiked home.” This interest and his friendship with Lord March also led Private White to outfit the entire staff at the Goodwood Revival – an event in which Ashley has competed with a Ford Falcon. “It scared the life out of me!”

    So, what does he think the future of the British fashion industry holds? “Britain needs more luxury brands. People around the world equate Britain with high-end luxury products, and we don’t have enough companies making them.” Brexit is also somewhat bittersweet for Private White, because while export prices will rise, the factory’s large European contingent is potentially at risk. 

    Ultimately for Ashley, Private White is about sustaining a historic factory’s skilled workforce. “My family had 13 factories employing 10,500 people,” he concludes, “so making comes first and designing comes second. My father always used to say we were in the people business, and I’m much more enthusiastic about the fact we’re creating more jobs than I am about winning a designer of the year award.” An honourable legacy for a thoroughly charming man, then. We’re told anyone who would like to visit the factory in Manchester is warmly welcome – there might even be a good ol’ (100% British) pie thrown in for lunch... 

    Photos: Adam Tait / Stoked Up for Classic Driver © 2016

    You can find more information about Private White V.C. at its official website

    via https://www.classicdriver.com/

    lundi 27 juillet 2020

    This Tequila-powered Triumph has been stretched for the salt

    Built for a reason, and for one reason only, this Triumph Thruxton-based ‘Salt Racer’ has its sights set on a new speed record at Lake Gardiner, South Australia, at the end of March…

    Far from standard

    Long and low-slung, the machine is the finished product from a team of bike-builders in Melbourne, Australia, who wanted to build a café-racer-inspired, land-speed bike – designed to go as fast as possible. With support from Triumph Australia, Peter Stevens Motorcycles led the project, the bike starting life as a factory-standard 2008 Triumph Thruxton. Ross Osborne from Supacustom was also heavily involved.

    Power house

    At the heart of this purpose-built speed machine is a heavily modified Thruxton motor. Bored to 1000cc by tuning specialist Andrew Hallam and running on alcohol-based fuel (ok, maybe not tequila, but methanol), it is expected to produce in excess of 100bhp. The stylish fuel tank and bodywork are made entirely from carbonfibre. Up front, a pair of forks from a Triumph 675 Daytona replace the originals, while at the rear an extended swingarm and high-performance twin dampers provide greater high-speed stability. If the bike's performance is anything near as good as its appearance, it's very likely that a record will be set in the currently 'open' DLRA 1000MF class.
    Photos: TriumphSaltRacer.com via www.classicdriver.com

    dimanche 26 juillet 2020

    This modern-day Manx Norton isn't quite what it appears...

    Yesterday’s performance may not live up to the standards of today’s supercars, but today’s aesthetic design is nowhere near what it used to be in the past. So, to meld the best of today with that of yesteryear, Blacktrack Motors has developed its new BT-02 ‘Thruxman’, in homage to the Norton Manx…

    Cheeky little Manx

    With one modern reproduction already under his belt, the BT-01, Sacha Lakic, founder of Blacktrack Motors, was itching to start another project, as he had the perfect source of inspiration: the Norton Manx from the 1940s and ‘50s. And once he took his new summer bike — a Triumph Thruxton R — on a short little stint around home, he knew that it would be the best donor machine for the Manx makeover. Although not bad looking, there wasn’t much to differentiate it from the rest the pack, and because it had such strong mechanical internals — 96bhp and 112 nM of torque on tap, fully adjustable Öhlins and Showa suspension, and Brembo brakes all around — the team at Blacktrack could really focus most of their work on recreating that iconic Manx look.
    With the Manx fuel tank being so recognisable, a new one was designed, shaped, and fitted to the Thruxton, along with a custom leather seat. And then, with other such additions as a new front fender, Manx-style headlight, angled stainless steel exhaust headers, a prototype speedo from Acewell, and a conversion from the Öhlins’ suspension to shorter, custom-made Shock Factory units, there was only one thing left to truly make this a modern Manx: paint. As Norton and Blacktrack both use the black, red, and silver colour palette, it was an easy choice to paint the frame in glossy black, with raw aluminium parts throughout, and to incorporate the iconic Manx fuel tank line in bright red. In an amalgamation of both Manx and Thornton in not only design but also name, the new BT-02 ‘Thruxman’ is sure to garner quite the amount of looks — from both young and old — wherever it may go.
    Photos: Blacktrack Motors via www.classicdriver.com