B
reakfast is inherently utilitarian — energy consumed to allow you to function for your waking hours. And so, it follows that this functional meal is, even at its most decadent, less complex than the wares that you see from lunches,dinners and even some desserts. There’s no molecular gastronomy in breakfast.
That means the resplendent part of breakfast comes in humble servings, done right — the perfect eggs, pancakes, coffee. There’s room for innovation in breakfast, but the most memorable parts are the staples done perfectly.
This isn’t a list of the most highly praised food spots in every major American city. This isn’t a list of the most celebrated chefs. This is a compilation of places to eat when looking for the best meal of the day done a bit better. There are places off the beaten path in major cities — places you’d have to get lost to stumble upon. And there are spots out on the great expanses of the US, cafes and diners that serve up something hot and delicious every morning, without fanfare. They don’t have stars mounted at their entryways. They don’t have white coats. But they do serve up utilitarian food with soul, and each bite helps to get you through the day, full and happy. That’s the spirit of breakfast.
– Matthew Ankeny
The Best Breakfasts in America 2015
ABRACO – Manhattan, New York
HUCKLEBERRY CAFE – Santa Monica, California
PANCAKE PANTRY – Nashville, Tennessee
FLOUR BAKERY AND CAFE – Boston, Massachusetts
PLOW – San Francisco, California
THE BONGO ROOM – Chicago, Illinois
GREEN EGGS CAFE – Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
FLORIDA AVENUE GRILL – Washington, District of Columbia
HASH HOUSE A GO GO – Las Vegas, Nevada
CAFE PATACHOU – Indianapolis, Indiana
GREAT LAKES COFFEE – Detroit, Michigan
GREG’S BAGELS – Baltimore, Maryland
FIRST WATCH – Charleston, West Virginia
CHEEKY’S – Palm Springs, California
LYNORAS OSTERIA – West Palm Beach, Florida
VERA CRUZ ALL NATURAL – Austin, Texas
SARDINE – Madison, Wisconsin
THE HOMINY GRILL – Charleston, South Carolina
JUMBARS – Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
BERTHA’S DINER – Buffalo, New York
MAMMA JANE’S PANCAKE HOUSE – The Dalles, Oregon
MAGNOLIA BISTRO – Burlington, Vermont
EDDIE MAE’S EATERY – Delano, Minnesota
PARKER’S MAPLE BARN – Mason, New Hampshire
ABRACO – Manhattan, New York
HUCKLEBERRY CAFE – Santa Monica, California
PANCAKE PANTRY – Nashville, Tennessee
FLOUR BAKERY AND CAFE – Boston, Massachusetts
PLOW – San Francisco, California
THE BONGO ROOM – Chicago, Illinois
GREEN EGGS CAFE – Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
FLORIDA AVENUE GRILL – Washington, District of Columbia
HASH HOUSE A GO GO – Las Vegas, Nevada
CAFE PATACHOU – Indianapolis, Indiana
GREAT LAKES COFFEE – Detroit, Michigan
GREG’S BAGELS – Baltimore, Maryland
FIRST WATCH – Charleston, West Virginia
CHEEKY’S – Palm Springs, California
LYNORAS OSTERIA – West Palm Beach, Florida
VERA CRUZ ALL NATURAL – Austin, Texas
SARDINE – Madison, Wisconsin
THE HOMINY GRILL – Charleston, South Carolina
JUMBARS – Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
BERTHA’S DINER – Buffalo, New York
MAMMA JANE’S PANCAKE HOUSE – The Dalles, Oregon
MAGNOLIA BISTRO – Burlington, Vermont
EDDIE MAE’S EATERY – Delano, Minnesota
PARKER’S MAPLE BARN – Mason, New Hampshire
Abraço
Forgettable Storefront, Memorable Meal
Like most storefronts in New York’s East Village, Abraço, at 86 East 7th Street, is both tiny and forgettable. But the family-run kiosk, opened in 2007, has quietly become a neighborhood institution, as notable for its cortado and savory olive oil cake as its rotating collection of ’70s-era records spinning behind the counter. Patrons know that mornings here are only what you make of them. Stay a while and chat up owner Jamie McCormick (formerly of Blue Bottle Coffee in San Francisco) — who greets his regulars by name — or simply ask for a quick cap’ to go. Your drink will come in a nondescript Anthora, the words “It’s our pleasure to serve you” hugging its sides. It’s white noise at most coffee stands around Manhattan, but the words here still read genuine and warm, even when you’re running late.
– Jack Seemer
86 E 7th St., Manhattan, NY 10003 ⇱ | abraconyc.com
Huckleberry Cafe
Breakfast on the Beach
When in Los Angeles, direct yourself to Santa Monica. And when in Santa Monica, direct yourself to Huckleberry Cafe. This delicious staple, beloved by west siders, offers food mostly culled from the fantastic farmers markets in the city — this means GMO-free, organic and very fresh produce. If you want a simple breakfast, opt for a piece of coffee cake and house-made granola, or keep it fresh with mixed berry crumble tart and lentil ragu or a quinoa bowl with veggies and eggs. The weekend crowds make it tough to find a seat, but then you can order to-go and head to the beach for an even better view.
– Bradley Hasemeyer
1014 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401 ⇱ | 310.451.1322 | huckleberrycafe.com
Pancake Pantry
Music City Flapjacks
In the heart of Hillsboro Village, Nashville, and walking distance from Vanderbilt University, one breakfast joint stands more proud than most. Opened in 1961 by Robert Baldwin, the Pancake Pantry has preserved its family roots — ownership has since passed from Robert onto his son, David. And as the name would suggest, pancakes are the big draw. Served all day, the menu presents a long list of flapjack variants, including those topped with strawberry compote, chocolate ganache, or made entirely of stone-ground cornmeal. But the famous ones are the sweet potato pancakes, made with real sweet potato batter and topped with cinnamon cream syrup. It’s thanks to those flapjacks that the restaurant enjoys both its notoriety, and the line out the door.
– Jack Seemer
1796 21st Ave S., Nashville, TN 37212 ⇱ | 615.383.9333 | thepancakepantry.com
Flour Bakery & Café
Breakfast, Emancipated
Chef Joanne Chang started romancing the city of Boston with her classic, indulgent pastries and savory treats 15 years ago in the city’s then-developing South End. Now, the hungry masses can converge with friends, a latte, and a buttery cinnamon cream brioche in three additional locations throughout Boston: Central Square, Back Bay, and that latest up-and-comer, Fort Point Channel. Bright and bustling, designed with the same air of simple pleasure you’ll find in the food, each Flour is likely to be filled with folks from all walks of Bostonian life — moms, hipsters and financial types alike fill the tables, drawn together by an undeniable craving for perfectly baked everything. Sweets cravers will have a hard time choosing from a full spread of favorites like pain aux raisins, sticky buns and the amazingly crumbly, old-fashioned sour cream coffee cake. Heartier appetites should go for the egg sandwich and revel in the magic combination of smoky bacon, spicy arugula, fresh-baked bread, and the tangy “dijonaise” that has made Chef Chang something of a hometown hero. True to her roots, Chang sources Flour’s ingredients from New England farms and businesses — from eggs to coffee — so it’s a homegrown effort, even when the menu nods French. Don’t forget to pick up some much-loved cookies or tarts to share, too; returning from Flour empty-handed will earn you the same ire as a cheer for the Yankees.
– Lauren Friel
1595 Washington St., Boston, MA 02118 ⇱ | 617.267.4300 | flourbakery.com
Plow
Traditional Food, Unconventional View
The view from Plow’s porch, on Potrero Hill, is not an iconic one. You can see the ballpark, the high rises and the Bay Bridge, but not the icons you expect from the San Francisco skyline: Coit Tower, Golden Gate Bridge, Transamerica. This unconventional view is a detail worth discussing, and you’ll have plenty of time to discuss it; Plow, San Francisco’s holy grail for brunch, always has a wait. Midwesterner Joel Bleskacek and SF local Maxine Siu do breakfast staples made better, and the word is out. The egg sandwich spills yolk and unifies the flavor at the first bite, and the lemon ricotta pancakes perfectly toe the line between sweet and tart. All the fare is worth the wait, so show up, put your name in, be patient and contemplate, analyze and perhaps enjoy the skyline view.
– Matthew Ankeny
1299 18th St., San Francisco, CA 94107 ⇱ | 415.821.7569 | eatatplow.com
The Bongo Room
Decadence in Wicker Park
Located in Chicago’s trendy Wicker Park area (as well as a second location in the South Loop), the Bongo Room is a crowd pleaser, and expect crowds (especially on the weekends). The austere brownish/grey exterior is consistent with the no-nonsense wood-and-brick digs inside, but the sparse decor is a far cry from the decadent options, like Oreo and praline flapjacks, a chorizo potato avocado omelette, and the piéce de résistance — Meyer lemon and blackberry hotcakes with a graham cracker crust, warm Meyer lemon cream, blackberry coulis and fresh blackberries.
– Amos Kwon
5022 N Clark St., Chicago, IL 60640 ⇱ | 773.728.7900 | thebongoroom.com
Green Eggs Café
Southern Fare in South Philly
Despite its name, the Green Eggs Café won’t cajole the long-lost Dr. Seuss lover out of you. The name comes from the restaurant’s green attitude and commitment to recycling its waste and biodegradable foods. But name confusion aside, this small spot shells out indulgent breakfasts. Stationed in South Philly, between Dickinson and Clarion Streets, they serve red velvet pancakes, a crème brûlée French toast, and an omelette named “The Kitchen Sink” (if you’re feeling adventurous, get it). For something more Southern inspired, they also have chicken and waffles or pork bacon-creole shrimp and grits — both of which induce transcendent food comas.
– Tucker Bowe
